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Review: Brasserie Blanc

19th December 2023 by Rob Rees 2 Comments AD - Invite, Blog, NewsCENTRAL OXFORD/ FRENCH/ JERICHO/ Oxford/ OXFORDSHIRE/ restaurant/ REVIEW

Let’s dive into the world of Brasserie Blanc Walton Street, slap bang in the middle of Jericho, and the fascinating culinary journey of Raymond Blanc and his burgeoning Heartwood group of affordable fine eateries.

Brasserie Blanc offers a delicious but mainstream take on French food but now in a refreshed, stylish bohemian setting. Once a lively pub, it’s recently been extensively refurbished from the original 1997 Terence Conran design and it’s now been transformed into a more modern haven for gastronomes. With its French-inspired cuisine and a cosy, brasserie-style ambiance, it’s a relatable culinary adventure waiting to be savoured by all at very affordable prices.

Jericho is a neighborhood steeped in Oxford publishing history and it oozes the innate character of an ex-working class district, chock full of rows of cute, print workers cottages. Picture the cobbled streets and the diverse residents, from impoverished scholars, to artists, to townies. It’s a place where culture and creativity converge, where you’ll find quirky shops, charming cafes, and an atmosphere that’s simply enchanting.

Turning our attention to the maestro himself, Raymond Blanc was born in the heart of France and his subsequent journey to the UK in the 1970s proved to be a pivotal moment in the British culinary world.

Raymond’s culinary journey wasn’t all Michelin stars and sophisticated dishes. Legend has it that he initially set out to become a priest, but it seems the divine calling in his life was the sizzle of a hot pan rather than church bells. It’s as if the universe knew it needed a culinary deity, not just another choirboy!

Now, where did he learn the magical art of French cooking? Blanc ventured into the world of culinary finesse by working in his parents’ restaurant, mastering the art of turning ordinary ingredients into extraordinary creations. Forget fancy culinary schools; this man learned the ropes in the school of hard knocks, turning carrots et al into kitchen delights. He’s still got an eye for lovable feel-good dishes and offering value for money in these tough economic times. He’s been integrally involved in developing all the dishes on all of the plates in the Heartwood group of gastro pubs, coaching inns and brasseries.

His culinary prowess, marked by Michelin stars, reached its zenith with the iconic Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Great Milton, Oxfordshire. Blanc’s dedication to seasonal, fresh ingredients and his undying love for French cuisine have left an indelible mark on our country’s quality food landscape.

Brasserie Blanc, an extension of his culinary philosophy, brings a slice of simple French cooking to Jericho. The restaurant retains the eye-catching original ‘arts and crafts’ style stained glass window that was designed by a regular customer back in the day.

The back room is really more for families and all ages. It’s much more couple-friendly in the front room so do specify your table needs as it’s quite a bit noisier and more child-orientated at the rear by the kitchen pass. Try to sit in the window so that you can people watch out onto the forever vibrant Walton Street.

Raymond Blanc had his finger prints all over this new autumnal menu. His trademark cheese soufflé and French classics abound. We attended on a Sunday lunchtime but we decided to explore the broader autumn menu. The Sunday Menu is available until 5pm; roasts subject to availability thereafter. 2 courses cost £24.00 with “add a third” for £6.00 (or dishes as priced).

All Sunday roasts are served with cauliflower cheese, roast seasonal vegetables, Savoy cabbage & bottomless roast potatoes, Yorkshires & gravy. Award-winning butcher, Aubrey Allen, supplies the highest quality, ethically reared meat. The beef roast alone is a very respectable £19.95.

I opted to start with the “build your own” Mediterranean fish soup which was a gastronomical delight, reminiscent of dreamy youthful summer days backpacking on the French Riviera. Throw in the Gruyère cheese, rouille, croutons and freestyle it, all at £8.95.

My partner enjoyed the baked Chestnut mushrooms in a Duxelles mushroom & cep cream and parsley crumb at £8.25. The sauce style was first created by François Pierre La Varenneand, invented way back in the 17th century.

For my mains, I chose pan-fried Stone Bass with Grenobloise sauce with brown shrimp & capers, and crushed new potatoes with wilted spinach at £22.50. Whilst visually vibrant and tasty, I could have done with a bolder, creamier, fishier sauce. But I get that this is more mainstream French cooking for more everyday British palates.

My companion enjoyed the Toulouse Sausages with sage & onion mash, Lyonnaise sauce and crispy shallots at £15.25. But again authentically, it missed a bit. She would have preferred more meat and garlic in the sausages, chunkier sausages and a thicker onion gravy. But it was still a thoroughly decent dish, beautifully presented and of generous portion size.

To bring Sunday lunch to a climax, we could not resist Mr Blanc’s puddings! My dining companion opted for the renowned Pistachio soufflé – an absolute belter and a Raymond classic – served with a rich chocolate ice cream at £8.65. It rarely ever disappoints.

The quintessential Sticky Toffee pudding with a cocoa & citrus crisp and Normandy crème fraîche is pretty darn tidy too at £9.95.

However, I opted for the Madagascan Vanilla crème brûlée, getting totally lost in the creaminess and crunchiness. Wow! And at a very fair £6.95.

To add to this, Virgil and Veronika are the perfect waitstaff. Veronika runs a tight ship on the front desk and has been with the Raymond Blanc family for many years. Virgil is friendly, courteous and professional.

Inge and Oliver the in-house Heartwood design team have delivered again here. The new wallpaper is the dominant feature of the front room – a fresh, stunning French-style impressionist country scene. BB is a delightful rendezvous for those with a taste for decent fayre, where every dish is a gentle amble through the more subtle flavours of France.

In essence, Brasserie Blanc in Jericho encapsulates the fusion of French culinary excellence, everyday affordability and the cheeky historical charm of Oxford’s Jericho. And for Sunday lunch it’s surprisingly varied and keenly priced. Bon appétit!

Brasserie Blanc
71-72 Walton St, Oxford OX2 6AG

Bitten were invited as guests of Brasserie Blanc, and all views are our own

Previous: Review: Wilding’s Truffle and Barolo evening
Next: Review: The Ladbroke Bell

Comments

  1. Sian Godwin says

    19th December 2023 at 8:04 pm

    Wow! That writing really made me want to go!!

    Reply
  2. Lisa Baker says

    5th February 2025 at 5:33 pm

    Food wonderful, decor poor, chips and scratches on tables, scratches all over water glasses, need throwing away, as for the paint work in pink going to Ladies toilets chipped all the way.and desperately need a new toilet seat the old wooden one doesn’t fit.
    Perhaps it doesn’t bother some people, but first impressions are everything in the hospitality business.

    Reply

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