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Review: The Ladbroke Bell

20th December 2023 by Rob Rees Leave a Comment AD - Invite, Blog, NewsINDEPENDENTS/ Oxford/ OXFORDSHIRE/ pub/ REVIEW

In the heart of the south Warwickshire countryside, a short jaunt away from Southam, Leamington Spa, and Banbury, lies a hostelry that defines the essence of the quintessential British Sunday pub lunch. Nestled within the tiny village of Ladbroke, The Bell is a bastion of culinary value, surrounded by thatched cottages, whimsical architecture, and an abundance of character that only the English countryside can offer. Ladbroke church is over 700 years old. The inside was renovated by the famous Victorian architect, Sir George Gilbert Scott so it’s worth the drive alone.

Ladbroke’s historical tapestry is rich, boasting ownership by none other than Robert Catesby, the infamous protagonist of the Gunpowder Plot. However, today’s Ladbroke is a far cry from its infamous past, offering tranquility in abundance, making it the ideal venue for a languorous Sunday luncheon coupled with a leisurely stroll, canine companion in tow. It’s the perfect spot to meet up with friends or family, lying midway between Oxford and Birmingham. It’s very dog friendly. My pooch was welcomed with his own water bowl and a plate of dog biscuits ready for him on the table.

Dani holds the reins as the General Manager of The Bell Inn. She’s been with the five-strong Freespirit Pubs group for many years. It is a testament to her dedication, having worked in many of their establishments, gaining insights and honing her skills. The chef Kieran and the young serving staff were engaged and attentive without that fake, hackneyed pub chain “are you enjoying your meal” check-back rigmarole that’s far too common and annoying these days, what with the abundance of dreadful corporate Greene King and M&B pub kitchens.

Now, to the pièce de résistance—The Bell’s Sunday Roast. A symphony of warming flavours and textures, served with all the classic accouterments one could desire: roast potatoes, fluffy Yorkshire pudding, parsnips, carrots, vibrant seasonal greens, and a seemingly bottomless stream of luscious thick gravy. The roast selection is as diverse as it is mouthwatering.

Oxfordshire Sirloin of Beef (£22.95); Oxfordshire Pork (£19.95); half a Roast Chicken (£19.95) and for both vegetarians and vegans, Nut Roast (£18.25) or the majestic Trio of Meats: Beef, Pork, a quarter Roast Chicken, accompanied by heavenly Pigs in Blankets and Sage & Onion Stuffing (£24.95). Sadly a lamb option wasn’t available. Meats are from Carpenters Farm.

I opted for the Chef’s Fish of the Day. Pan-roasted Sea Bass on crushed new potatoes, greens and salsa verde was both colourful and healthy but a little bland. I should have chosen the gorgeous and sizeable Beef Roast so enjoyed by my dining partner. There’s nothing worse than “Sunday roast envy”! 

Thankfully, I’d opted for the excellent starter of mushroom and Gruyère cheese soufflé, which was thicker but nearly as good as Raymond Blanc’s creations. My dining companion went for The Chef’s Scallops of the Day. Lush scallops served with pancetta, silver skin baby onions and salsa verde, which does seem a bit of a current favourite of Kieran. The fresh fish is supplied by the highly respected Kingfisher.

The Bell offers a nicely curated wine list, each wine handpicked for its exceptional character. Notable mentions include the Australian Chardonnay, with its tantalizing black stone fruit and truffle notes, and the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, a symphony of gooseberry, citrus, and mineral complexity. The Spanish Choza Rioja Blanco added a touch of finesse with its delicate aromas of fresh apples and flowers, finely balanced between softness and weight. It might be too innocuous and subtle for some palates though.

For those with a penchant for the sweet finale, a visit to Ladbroke would be incomplete without indulging in the Dark Chocolate Mousse & Hazelnut Ice Cream, a treat priced at £8.95 so that your Sunday lunch ends on a euphoric and rather hedonistic note. However, a bit too thick and sticky for my dining partner’s liking …… so the Sunday Roast alone is probably enough for most mere mortals and average hungers.

The Italian pistachio olive oil polenta cake I chose was decent enough although the tinned orange segments and ‘economic’ portion rather let down what was a jolly good and creative idea. The accompanying lemon sorbet from Noel’s ice cream easily passed muster.

So why not drive out with family, friends and dog to this corner of the Oxfordshire and Warwickshire countryside. It’s a historic area rich with military tales (as mentioned in my earlier review of The Castle at Edgehill with its English Civil War roots) and perfect for a pre-prandial or post-prandial dog walk. Sunday roast here is not your fancy overpriced gastro food but it is very much home cooked, honest value, quality pub food. Walkers and nearby friends can gather at The Bell to savour the rustic simplicity and warm hospitality of your classic English countryside pub.

The Bell Inn
Banbury Rd, Ladbroke, Southam, CV47 2BY

Bitten were invited as guests of The Bell, all views are our own

Previous: Review: Brasserie Blanc
Next: Review: Mint Lounge

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