I recently stopped in at the Lamb Tavern at Buckland, newly acquired by Nathan Richardson, to see how it’s turned out.

What happens when a beloved Oxfordshire village pub is taken over by a London chef? Based on my experience, I’d say that the former head chef of the Guinea Grill in Mayfair has successfully reinvigorated the Lamb and is serving up classic fare with a bit of panache.

For a relaxed midweek dinner, we opted to sit in the bar area; there is also a more formal restaurant as well as a private dining room. Armed with a glass of wine from the extensive list, plus a plate of homemade bread, we took our time deciding what to eat.   The menu features traditional favourites (fish and chips, pies, calves’ liver) and a few dishes with a modern twist, all lovingly made on the premises from carefully sourced ingredients. Meat and fish predominate, with a couple of veggie options on the evening I visited.

We started with two bar snacks (£7.00), strongly influenced by our choice of seating location. Crispy cod roe fritters were airy bites, served with a horseradish mayonnaise to temper their saltiness. The fried haggis nuggets were heartier; an accompanying whisky sauce packed a little punch that balanced well with the restrained offal.  Our one proper starter was anchovy-stuffed lamb belly served with smoked yoghurt (£9.00).  The contrast of tender lamb, cool smokiness, and salty capers was pleasing; my small disappointment was the absence of any distinctive anchovy flavour coming through. Even so, it was an inviting plate to whet my appetite.

Of our two main courses, I was particularly taken by the marvellous ham hock and leek pie (£17.00).  Buttery golden pastry was packed with a filling of rich, soft meat, leeks, and bright herbs that brought me great joy.  Luscious gravy and smooth mash rounded out the quintessential pub dish, and yes, I ate it all. We also had the whole Cornish squid served with the chef’s homemade smoked sausage and seaweed (£17.00). The balance of tastes and textures was lovely. The squid was delicious (though sadly a few pieces weren’t perfectly tender), and the chunky sausage contrasted nicely with the tastes of the ocean.  A vibrant side of chilli and anchovy broccoli (£4.00) was nicely al dente and packed a punch. I would have loved the spice of the dish taken by itself, but it slightly overwhelmed the more subtle flavours of my beloved pie. Perhaps I should have ordered the Savoy cabbage and bacon instead. 

There was an attractive range of desserts, including favourites such as crème brûlée, treacle tart, and pavlova (all £7.50).  The cheese selection was also well considered, with each cheese paired to a matched flavour: for example, Roquefort with a Sauternes grape jelly.  We opted to split a classic bread-and-butter pudding with custard, and at this point we were given an excellent tip by our server: to pour a shot of Pedro Ximenez Dulce sherry over the top.  It turns out that pudding doused with pudding wine is a very fine idea; if you don’t believe me, try it for yourself.  

Overall, I enjoyed my outing to the Lamb, which is a charming country pub with attentive service, tasty food, and a fine drink selection.  What a great reminder of why I should venture out of the city into the Oxfordshire countryside more often!

The Lamb Tavern
Buckland, Faringdon SN7 8QN
lambtavernbuckland.com

Bitten were invited to The Lamb, and all views are our own