Review: Six by Nico Oxford launch

“Six by Nico” has finally arrived in Oxford and has just opened atop the Westgate centre. It is famed for its rotating 6 course tasting menus and this is its seventeenth outlet nationwide, branching out steadily from its Glaswegian roots since 2017.

Its expansion has been self-financed by founder and driving force Nico Simeone, who has come a long way from the Glasgow family fish shop. The first tasting menu to debut in Oxford is “The Chippie” and pays homage to Nico’s Scottish heritage. The tasting menu changes every six weeks, with themes like New York, Taste of Italy and Mexican being some of the most loved.

Six by Nico Oxford Interior Photography by Professional Photographer Andrew Ogilvy

Nico Simeone commented on his excitement of bringing his unique dining experience to Oxford: “The Chippie was created having been inspired by my family traditions, growing up around my grandparents’ chip shop. The ultimate aim of the menu is to bring a sense of fun to the culinary world and a sense of nostalgia”.

As you can see from the photos, Nico’s interiors are always something to behold. At the Westgate they have been designed by Studio Two, whose co-founder Zoe Wheatley has used our city as her inspiration: “We use the symbology of the number 6 and the graceful six-legged dragonfly that we see in other Nico venues but the core materials of the space draw from a narrative centred around Oxford. We highlight its architectural style, particularly the Palladian design of the Radcliffe Library. Central to the design, atmosphere and theatre is the open kitchen and pass, which we designed as the main focal point of the space.”

Nico also offers genuine attempts at both vegetarian and vegan tasting menus. Nearby diners commented that too often just an unimaginative nod is given to these dietary requirements but Nico’s does not compromise on taste or innovation when delivering the 6 vegetarian and 6 vegan tasting options.

The six-course tasting menu is set at £50 per person, with a wine-pairing option for an additional £39 per person, with carefully selected wines to bring the best out of the food. Non alcoholic wines and mocktails are available.

Having thoroughly enjoyed a few tasting menus out in the quality dining pubs of rural Oxfordshire, I wasn’t bowled over by the food in all honesty. Personally I found “The Chippie” menu too rich for my liking, although this wasn’t helped by the warmth of a sunny summer’s day. But most of the other diners seemed to be enthralled by the whole experience and were happy with the value on offer compared to other casual dining choices in Oxford. It’s very much a modern place to come for a special occasion, a family get-together and for those who are keen to experience some truly innovative dishes without paying Gees or Parsonage prices. I visited at lunchtime but at night this place will be a totally different proposition and will be absolutely buzzing. However, it is not going to be everyone’s ‘cup of tea’.

So let’s examine the six courses on the Classic menu, which is essentially a “surf & turf” type combo. The menu starts with Chips & Cheese, reimagined as parmesan espuma and curry oil emulsion with a crisp potato terrine. Scampi is then served with brandade, dill emulsion, gribiche, peas and beurre blanc and is followed by a modern take on the traditional Fish Supper with scrabster coley, pickled mussels, confit fennel, samphire and beer emulsion – my favourite of all the courses.

The menu contains two meat based dishes – a traditional Steak Pie consisting of 24-hour Beef Shin and Burnt Onion Ketchup, and mushroom duxelles with the savoury courses concluding with Smoked Sausage – a trio of pork, apple, crispy crackling, salt baked celeriac and choucroute. This felt totally out of context and way too rich.

For dessert, there’s fun to be had where you can indulge in Deep Fried Mars Bar, complemented by a top notch chocolate pave and a quirky Irn Bru sorbet, celebrating some of Scotland’s mythical foodstuffs!

Six by Nico Oxford has 64 covers in the main dining area, a private dining space for 12 guests, and a sizeable terrace overlooking Tom Tower and south central Oxford’s rooftops.

Do check out the website for upcoming menus. There’s 9 different ones every year drawing inspiration from a memory, place or idea, including “The Year’s Best” during the Christmas season. You certainly won’t be short of unusual dishes and dining excitement.

“The Chippie” experience will be available until Sunday, 30 June.