Six by Nico, Mad Hatter’s Tea Party

Located on the top of the Westgate, Six by Nico is comfortably contemporary – an open kitchen anchors the spacious dining room, giving diners a glimpse of the action. There’s a touch of decadence to the interiors that pairs well with the restaurant’s theatrical ambitions, and some attractive private dining spots make it feel like a space designed for an occasion.

I started the meal with the Through the Looking Glass aperitif – a light, sparkling blend of elderflower, grapefruit and prosecco. It was a refreshing opener, with grapefruit leading the profile and setting a bright, zesty tone.

A dense pulled chicken “doughnut” kicked things off with a comforting roast dinner feel – more dumpling than doughnut, lifted by a rich jus and a crisp topping. It was slightly dense for my tastes and underwhelmed me.

The second course, Barbecue Hispi Cabbage with Smoked Potato Terrine, Taramasalata and Garden Herbs, livened both the palate and imagination. Charred cabbage and crispy potatoes brought back memories of bonfires, layered with a smoky house hot sauce that had been marinating overnight. Visually and aromatically, it was one of the more dramatic plates – bold, fiery and memorable.

Where the concept really came alive was in a striking goat’s cheese dish that looked like a Jackson Pollock painting or a Stone Roses album cover. Celeriac mimicked a caterpillar, framed by a bright beetroot dressing that cut nicely through the creaminess of the goat’s cheese. Refreshing and well-balanced, it was one of the dishes that felt genuinely tied to the “Mad Hatter” brief – playful, curious and slightly off-kilter in the best way.

The “edible menu” concept for the Breakfast in Disguise course was clever in theory, less so in execution. Black pollock, black pudding and egg yolk jam were layered with hash browns and butter beans. A lot was going on, a bit too much all at once.

Off With His Head brought things back down to earth with familiar pleasures – rich, flavourful pig’s head croquette wrapped in a golden crunch, lifted by lovage and the sweet warmth of mustard seeds. It was arguably the most satisfying dish of the evening: less theatre, more substance.

Dessert closed the meal with a whimsical nod to breakfast – burnt toast delice, summer strawberries, and a nostalgic ‘Jammy Dodger’. But for me, it missed the mark. I found it overly sweet, so much so that I didn’t even finish it, which is very unlike me. The homemade jammy dodger was a nostalgic way to round off the meal, a delicious shortbread and rich, bright jam. A flourish of dry ice added some drama, though it was whisked away so quickly it felt more like a rehearsed trick than a moment of magic.

Unfortunately, drinks ordered during the meal were noticeably slow. Cocktails and wine pairings are a key part of the Six by Nico experience, so the delay in service felt at odds with the otherwise polished service of the food.

For some, Six by Nico will offer a fun, fleeting journey through themed plates and bold ideas. But for others, it may leave you feeling like it was more spectacle than story, more show than soul.