Review: The Mole Inn

The Mole Inn in Toot Baldon has been a favourite countryside pub for as long as I’ve lived in Oxford. Graced with a beautiful garden patio, and surrounded by rural walks in most directions, it’s just a temptingly short drive out of town in the summer. Somehow, I’d never been there in winter, so was really pleased to have the chance very recently. And what a warm welcome we had. The tastefully rustic ambience glows with pared down charm but without any cottage-y over-the-top clutter. Exposed beams, big squishy sofas, and massive fireplaces invite you inside for a cosy dinner.

So let’s focus on this meal, and most importantly, the new menu. It offered a tasty range of modern pub fare – think Thai duck salad, black pudding croquettes, celeriac soup, miso-glazed cabbage – along with some very classic offerings including burgers, fish and chips, and steak. Starters range from £10-16, while mains go from £12-28.

Beginning dinner with a nice glass of fruity Merlot and the house made focaccia seemed like an excellent idea. Disappointingly few restaurants serve home-made bread these days, and so I feel obliged to order it any time it’s on offer. How did the Mole Inn do? Their focaccia was airy and moist, with a distinctive golden crust, and it was rich with olive oil and rosemary. The flavour was spot on, though they were a bit heavy handed with the salt for my preference.

As a starter, we shared a Thai duck salad, with kaffir lime, lemongrass and chilli dressing. This was a tasty little dish featuring rich, tender duck and a good balance of umami andsweetness. My quibble is that it could have used a little bit more zing, either from more lime or chilli, and a few more of the crunchy elements.

We then went big for our mains, both of which promised some well-designed taste combinations. The meltingly soft pork belly with miso glazed hispi cabbage, white beans, and hazelnuts certainly delivered. I think this was my favourite dish of the evening, and I give a thumbs up to the liberal sprinkling of nuts on top. Their satisfying crunch balanced out the soft textures on the plate, while their rich earthiness complemented the sweetness of the grilled cabbage very nicely. A comforting classic with a twist.

The pappardelle with beef ragu, cavalo nero and a hefty sprinkling of grana Padano also made for a hearty antidote forthe gloomy weather. The broad pasta ribbons were al dente, and robust enough to take on the sauce. I wasn’t quite as enamoured of the ragu-cavalo nero blend, because it needed less of the green and more of the concentrated savoury meatiness to make it truly more-ish.

Dessert is always a must, at least for me, but on this occasion, we showed some restraint by only ordering one. Now, I’ll admit that I ignored the recommendation of our friendly server, who suggested trying the tiramisu or sticky toffee pudding. Instead, I had my heart set on the blood orange souffle with chocolate ice cream (£11). To start with the positives: the citrus notes came through well, and it contrasted well with the good-quality dark chocolate ice cream. The issue was that the souffle was overly eggy tasting rather than delicate and airy. Perhaps a shade overcooked, or not served quickly enough? Either problem can be easily fixed, but next time I’ll get a proper British pudding.

And yes, I’ll head back to the Mole Inn. It’s a welcoming pub with an unpretentious atmosphere and friendly attentive service. I enjoyed the overall dining experience, despite a few blips, and I look forward to an outdoor lunch when the Spring weather finally arrives.