The Boxford is another “must visit” gem in the South Oxfordshire dining scene.

Like The Woodspeen, it’s worthy of your custom for the building alone. On Lambourn Road, in the village of Boxford, there now stands an iconic architectural wonder of a restaurant, created on the site of the former Bell pub, serving great Italian food.

It’s the fourth restaurant in the WSH Restaurants portfolio, which includes the Woodspeen, the Sparsholt near Wantage, and the Clockspire in Milborne Port. This is so not a pub restaurant chain – it could not be anything further removed from that ghastly concept. Here you’ll get fresh handmade food, prepared by the best of chefs served by calm, unobtrusive, professional staff.

The Boxford offers all-day, family-friendly, Italian casual dining, set in a dramatic, welcoming restaurant space that will both intrigue you and leave you pretty speechless.

It consists of glass on one side leading to seated terracing, an open kitchen pass and a pitched 7 metre high roof, soundproofed with wooden batons & cork and thatched externally using sustainable materials. Most of the materials have been sourced locally as well as the skilled craftsmen used for construction. Stunning natural landscaping creates an attractive and softened foreground to the building, with biodiverse plantings. A separate bar / welcome area, comfortable speakeasy and round tabled seating and pendant lighting all add to the casual vibe. It would be hard to imagine a more dramatic renovation of a former Victorian public house and 1980s annex!

Alistair Storey, who lives in the Newbury area, is the brains and investor behind WSH. He also owns the parent company of hospitality brands including Benugo, Searcys, BaxterStorey and Holroyd Howe. Plans are well underway for no.5 in the WSH restaurants group, to be opened in the food mecca that is Bray, near Maidenhead.

None of this dining ambition would ever succeed without a top notch team.

Mirko Privitera is the head chef, who hails from Sicily and is supported by pizza chef Yousef. General Manager Bert is a committed local, having grown up in nearby Welford and Bagnor. You could not meet a more energetic, polite young man. Bert generates heartfelt hospitality and an easy informality that is utterly captivating. Bert is well supported by Theo, Buccio (from Florence, Italy) and enthusiastic barman / cocktail specialist Conor. Do try his rather delicious, refreshing raspberry and honey mocktail if you’re driving!

There’s a darn good wine list by the glass including delicious whites, like a Chilean Viognier and a sophisticated Albariño. A substantial wine list of 75 bottles has been carefully curated to complement the entire food offering.

Fresh hand-rolled pasta is made onsite every day, in classic Italian style, and elevated with moreish seasonal flavours and carefully selected seasonal produce.

There are ample starters and sharers. We were temped by the arancini (£6) – fried rice balls stuffed with ham, pistachio and mozzarella – sizeable, moist and naughtily indulgent, pairing well with a glass of South African Chenin Blanc. An ‘aperitivo perfetto!’ as they say in these parts!

Bert insisted we try the hand stretched, flat focaccia bread Pane Fino with rosemary & Maldon sea salt (£5). It wasn’t too heavy and was well complemented with lashings of the house’s quality, artisanal chilli oil.

We just had to try Alistair Storey’s own favourite dish, a simple Sicilian pasta, the Spaghetti Alla Siciliana (£21). Anchovy, garlic, extra virgin olive oil, chilli and parsley, with an aromatic toasted crumb – as unfussy as it gets, utterly delicious and with a pleasant spicy kick.

Red or white pizzas and all the classics are available. I plumped for the Parma ham pizza (£19) – tomato sauce, fiordilatte mozzarella, rocket, Parma ham, parmesan, oregano and basil oil. We tore into the sourdough pizza, served still bubbling from the kitchen’s centrepiece copper pizza oven. The fluffy pizza dough is the result of a special 72hr fermentation process, with biga, which adds complexity, lightness and flavour. The pizza was laden with toppings, easy to digest, light and crispy. All pizza and pasta can be made gluten-free on request.

There is a “Not Pasta, Not Pizza” section to the menu including your classic Wiener Schnitzel. My dining partner opted for the Lemon Sole Fillet (£28) – pan-fried lemon sole fillet, capers, olives, shallot, samphire and herbs, served with grilled baby gem lettuce as a side dish. Vibrant, colourful, uncomplicated and ideal if you want to keep the carbs to a minimum.

Puddings brought the meal to a rather jolly and somewhat retro finish. When did you last see a Rhum Baba on a menu? “Wimpy in the 1970s?” you shout. Fresh strawberry & lime Chantilly cream set this classic dessert off perfectly. The Bigne – a chocoholic’s chocolate eclair – was filled with chocolate mousse and hazelnut, served with chocolate ice cream. So terribly naughty but guaranteed to send you home with a smile on your face!

The Boxford offers tasty, fun Italian food served in the most remarkable of surroundings. It’s not overly cheap but the service and the ambience ‘knocks spots off’ all other Italian casual dining outlets. This is not your common & garden pub or high street pizza. The sourdough pizzas, the fresh handmade pasta, the wine list and the exemplary hospitality and warmth of Bert and his team are worth the adventure out to this secluded corner of gallops country. Choose a fine summer’s evening or lunchtime and be transported to what feels like a unique and hidden spot.

The Boxford
Lambourn Road, Boxford, RG20 8DD
Closed on Monday & Tuesday. Open other 5 days: 0930 -2130

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