In the enchanting village of Charlbury, where history meets culinary finesse, The Bell, under the umbrella of Carol Bamford’s Daylesford Stays and pub group, emerges as a gastronomic gem.

Carol Bamford, an arbiter of classic country taste, has woven her magic into the fabric of this once moribund hostelry, creating not just a pub, but a destination. The Bell stands as a testament to Bamford’s commitment to quality and a celebration of organic living. Through Daylesford Stays and a collection of pubs, she creates havens where the very essence of good food and warm hospitality intertwines seamlessly. 

The culinary symphony at The Bell, led by executive head chef Alan Gleeson, is a harmonious chord in the grand composition of Bamford’s vision for a delectable and enriching experience. And with the young and ambitious Nic Scarpellini as head chef, formerly of The Hollybush in Witney, he’s got an amazing team to work with as he moves between The Fox and The Bell.

The Bell at Charlbury has undergone a dramatic transformation from a dingy, tired Greene King tenancy to a worthy part of Carol Bamford’s Daylesford Stays collection.

No expense has been spared on converting the 17th-century pub – when I asked how many millions had been ploughed into the project, Nathan the GM smiled and said “A lot!” Even the public bathroom fittings and hand dryers are of the highest imaginable quality!

It’s all been done very tastefully and a warm cosy vibe has been created using local woods, artisan crafts, and hand-printed wallpaper.

Lady B’s design team have effected a sustainable restoration with 12 sumptuous bedrooms; cosy armchair snug areas; an additional dining/events room in The Barn; and a textbook English meadowland garden. The green plot is just under an acre in size, planted with apple trees and with a stream running through it at the bottom of the hill. A huge tent structure, artistically mown meadows and expertly repaired dry stone walls of the highest craft make this a secluded nirvana. Complete with a bar, and two walled terraces seating up to 70 people, the outside space is the perfect spot to enjoy ‘al fresco’ dining and shared platters. Multiple beautiful garden chairs, wooden furniture and classic striped deckchairs abound outside.

The bedroom interiors combine comfort with intricate style – from hand-blocked wallpaper made in Oxfordshire, to carefully restored crewelwork embroidery and fourposter beds built from Daylesford Estate wood. The “inn with rooms” design was heavily inspired by the history of The Bell itself. Original materials have been sympathetically restored, and local and recycled materials were introduced during construction to minimise the impact on the environment. The bar forms the heart of the pub, crafted using ash from the Daylesford Estate, while inglenook fireplaces offer warm snugs by the fire. Fabrics from Nila, a charitable organisation dedicated to utilising and preserving natural dye and traditional handloom techniques of India, have been used throughout the interiors. Antique country artwork adorns many of the walls. 

Chef Alan Gleeson built a pretty solid reputation at The Harcourt Arms, earning the Stanton Harcourt country pub great respect in the greater Oxford foodie scene. Sadly made redundant in lockdown, Alan reappeared last year at Daylesford’s The Fox in Oddington. It quickly reached the level of the Wild Rabbit at Kingham and his reputation has certainly been enhanced further.

We sat in the courtyard garden, enjoying a zesty crisp preprandial Rosé from the Daylesford vineyard in Provence. We then ate a selection of Alan Gleeson’s dishes on the walled terrace, embarking on an epicurean adventure of culinary brilliance. Beginning with the freshly devilled crispy whitebait adorned with a zesty squeeze of lemon, the tartare sauce’s creaminess perfectly complemented the crispy whitebait.

We then delved into the vivid world of heritage tomatoes paired with Stracciatella cheese and basil, a vibrant homage to freshness and simplicity. The Wootton estate venison carpaccio, elevated with the tang of pickled walnut, showcased a delicate balance of finessed flavours, each bite simply divine.

The roasted heritage beetroots, adorned with salsa verde, offered a harmonious marriage of earthy sweetness and herbaceous zest, while the Moules Mariniére embraced you with the essence of the sea and memories of Belgian coastal holidays, beautifully seasoned to perfection.

The succulent Brisket ensconced within the comforting embrace of Oxford Isis butterhead lettuce and French dip really was something to enjoy, particularly when complemented by the freshness of courgette, radish, dill, and Caesar dressing.

We finished the finest of dining adventures with two great desserts.

Firstly roasted plums, bedecked with creamy mascarpone and a crumble of crushed Amaretti biscuits. Finally, we surrendered to the naughtiness of the bitter chocolate tart, its richness harmonising perfectly with the tangy notes of crème fraiche.

General Manager Nathan Walker-Unwin and Assistant GM Andy Henderson have worked all over the world. Both guys are supported by an expert service team led by über enthusiastic Paulina from Warsaw, who has been part of the Daylesford community for a while. Dishes are served by a small army of intelligent, local young staff in the old parlour, in a ­variety of snugs and a stunning panelled side room. Aside from the fish, most of its ingredients come from the Daylesford farm and its sister enterprise, Wootton Estate in Staffordshire.

I used to come to the YHA youth hostel in Charlbury as a Scout with my teenage buddies, hiking the nearby rolling Cotswold fields and hills. There was always a friendly publican to dispense under age bevvies and quality Hook Norton or Morrell’s real ales. The beer world has changed somewhat since with a trend for over-hopped kegged craft beers. However, the wine list at The Bell today is ample compensation and there are some darn good bitters and IPAs on tap.

For years, Charlbury has been a favourite of ‘the great and the good’, from Rowan ­Williams, the former Archbishop of Canterbury (who had a house here) to actor Toby Jones (who was brought up in Charlbury) and David Beckham (who lives near that cliché known as Soho Farmhouse). Lord Cameron & Farmer Clarkson reside nearby in Chadlington – in the ‘Platinum Corridor’, as those annoyingly posh and pompous estate agents have labelled it.

The Bell at Charlbury opened in mid-September. Lady Bamford’s beautifully restored inn with rooms combine the sanctuary of a friendly pub with the luxury of heartfelt service and a top-notch environment. The Bell joins The Wild Rabbit, The Fox and The Cottages as part of her group. A fourth pub, The Three Horseshoes in Asthall between Witney and Burford, has been owned and run by Lady Bamford for two years now and is in the last stages of its own refurbishment including new bedrooms. It has recently reopened in a fresh, airy country style and has added to the already good infrastructure of a beautifully located village hostelry in what was The Maytime Inn.

Pick any one of Lady B’s inns but maybe get along to The Bell in Charlbury if you really want to experience that idyllic Cotswolds glow in the what can sometimes be a dreich run-up to Christmas.

The Bell
1 Church Street, Charlbury, OX7 3PP

Bitten were invited as guests of The Bell, and all views are our own