Review: Ribs’n’Rum on The Store’s Rooftop

What does summer in the city look like to you? How about alfresco dining with rooftop views of the dreaming spires? A sun-kissed sanctuary above the bustle of the streets?

Just add a smoked meat platter with rum cocktails, and you’ve got lunch on the terrace at the Store, Oxford’s new-ish hotel on the site of the former Boswell’s. I recently visited the Store to sample their ‘Ribs ‘n’ Rum on the Roof’ menu, and it gets a thumbs-up from me.

The terrace itself includes a small bar, sleek indoor seating (for those inevitable rain showers), and a larger outdoor section. We headed straight outside, where we could enjoy the music drifting up from a street busker below, as well as a gorgeous vista of Oxford.

Even on a cloudy day there was a powerful vacation vibe, so it made perfect sense to order two mojitos and settle in. These cocktails were refreshing and well-
balanced: a good start to the experience. But honestly, as much as I appreciate rum, I was there for one main reason: the smoke platter.

The menu features options for meat lovers (cheeseburger, hot dog, pulled pork) and veggies (aubergine parmigiana, whole burrata), but let’s get back to that platter. The mouthwatering array of smoked meats that arrived was a real showstopper. The centrepiece for me was the full-flavour chuck roast that was tender, smoky, and meaty.

This sometimes-underrated cut was an excellent choice instead of the more usual brisket. You could dip it into the BBQ sauce or apple ketchup, though I thought it was best without adornment. There was a marvellous German-stye smoked beef sausage with an unexpected (and totally enjoyable) kick of spice. We also got well-sauced and juicy baby back ribs that were succulent without quite collapsing off the bone. And finally, there was a blackened Cajun chicken that was slightly overshadowed by its
companions. Still tasty, just not a standout.

The three vegetable sides continued the smoky theme, while making the platter into a full meal. Grilled sweetcorn ‘riblets’ were spiced and grilled until slightly charred. This cooking method infuses tons of flavour into the corn and opens up the kernels. It’s then up to you to eat them off the cob – the ultimate summer BBQ finger food and oh, so good! My other favourite was the parmentier potatoes: little crispy cubes with a fluffy interior, finished with smoked salt. A pretty purple celeriac slaw to refresh the tastebuds rounded out the experience. It’s last on my list because it was the least memorable, mainly because I’m not a big coleslaw fan.

My small note to the chef overall would be regarding the side sauces. My conflicting thoughts were first that we weren’t given enough, but secondly that they lacked pizzazz so I didn’t eat as much as I normally would. The ketchup, in particular, was more akin to apple sauce, whereas it needed a bit more tartness or spice to counterbalance the sweetness.

Regarding quantity, there was an insane amount of food for just the two of us. I indulged so much that I was on the verge of the meat sweats, which you should take as a strong recommendation. You can also take it as an advisory that this sharing platter (£65) could serve more of you depending on your appetite.

Even so, I had already ordered the crayfish roll on the side, as I take my menu-tasting responsibilities very seriously. When the brioche bun stuffed with sweet crayfish in a citrusy ponzu aioli arrived, I still
considered only having a tiny bite. But one mouthful of that delightful summer-picnic seafood taste, and I devoured the whole thing. No regrets – it deserved to be eaten immediately. Next time, I might go and have just this for lunch.

The man behind our meal was head chef Kieran Munday, formerly at the Greenhouse in Banbury.

When we had a chat before lunch, his knowledge and passion were immediately apparent. I could only agree with his views on the benefits of using beef dripping to fry the crispiest potatoes, and on how smoking can enhance most types of foods. Wise man. He is clearly an afficionado of all things smoked, and I think he’s been most successful in tastefully bringing elements of a BBQ joint into a very chic
boutique hotel. Welcome to Oxford, Kieran!

The terrace bar is open Monday to Wednesday from 6pm and Thursday from midday for drinks. The Ribs ‘n’ Rum menu is available from midday Friday to Sunday.