If you’ve walked along the High Street in the last few months, you might have noticed the arrival of Gusto Italian in the old Mitre Pub.  A new restaurant opening in such an iconic Oxford location is a Big Deal, so I happily accepted an invitation to sample the menu, meet the head chef, and check out the ambience.

Let’s start with the beautifully refurbished Mitre, whose historic character still shines through everywhere. Inside the restaurant, cosy nooks, wood panelling, and original fireplaces are enhanced by warm lighting and elegant décor. Gusto’s general manager (Oxford-born Roberto Losito) told me about their desire to bring the venue back to life. I’d say they’ve been highly successful.

But it’s not all about the old: modern touches including a cool cocktail bar, open-display kitchen, and large chef’s table make Gusto a sleek and inviting space in the heart of town.  Bright window view of the High Street or a jewel-toned booth tucked in a corner? It’s easy to pick an area to suit your mood. There’s even a private dining room with its own kitchen and bar upstairs.

If that list makes you think that Gusto has a lot going on, you’re absolutely right. The restaurant is open all day, from morning coffee through brunch and lunch to cocktails and dinner. You can even sign up for a group make-your-own pizza experience at the chef’s table (£45 per person with fizz included).

To get my evening started, I headed straight to the sweet spot midway between the bar and the kitchen to appreciate a pre-dinner drink with canapes. My Aperol spritz (£8.75) was delectable, though I suffered a bit of FOMO when the barman brought a Smokey Old Fashioned (£10) to the table complete with a smoking dome. Yeah, they have some fun cocktails on offer!

The menu also has a wide appeal: it’s what I’d call Italian-inspired, with extras. There are plenty of traditional favourites – pasta, pizza, risotto, fried calamari, and grilled meats – as well as dishes with a more contemporary twist. You can also select from a range of lighter bites, salads, plus veggie and vegan options. Want a burger? No problem.  The staff were extremely helpful in guiding us through all the choices of both food and wine. The good news was that the excellent service was matched by a really enjoyable dinner.

My colourful starter of prawns with pickled fennel served with tomatoes, capers and chilli oil (£9.75) was brightly refreshing. I enjoyed the sweetness of the seafood very much, though it needed a little more of the lovely fennel element to balance the dish.

For my main, I couldn’t resist the unusual pulled pork gnocchi in a light tomato sauce, topped with a parsley crumb (£14.25). The gnocchi dumplings themselves were a deliciously dense and chewy base. The well-chosen topping was a basically meaty ragù consisting of tender slow-cooked pork. It might not be what your average Italian grandma would cook, but it’s a tasty choice if you’re hungry for something hearty with an Italian vibe. I also sampled the pizza and was delighted at the airy sourdough crust. It was beautifully charred around the edges and had a chewy bite: just my style.

When we got to the dessert stage, the sweet winner was definitely the Biscoff cheesecake (£7.25). Full disclosure – it wasn’t even my pudding. But when someone says it’s the best they’ve ever eaten, it’s only polite to take several large bites right off their plate, right? Light, creamy, delicately caramel-flavoured on a biscuit base – it’s the ideal answer to any sugary craving. This cheesecake outshone my own order by far. The creamy ricotta filling of my cannoli had the delightful taste of Sicily, but the shell didn’t have the perfect crisp bite.

One more charm of our evening at Gusto was the open kitchen letting us see head chef Mukrram Kazim and his team hard at work. Equally mesmerizing for me was being able to watch pizza chef Giovanni intently crafting dough and baking it in the Italforni oven. This piece of kit had reached an impressive 451 degrees Celsius when I saw it, so no surprise that the crust is so good.

Altogether, this bit of culinary entertainment really showcases the expertise and care behind each dish. This pride in the quality of the food also came through during my conversation with the charming head chef himself. Here at Gusto, he’s looking to bring authentic and delicious Italian ingredients to our plates. In doing so, he draws on years of experience working around the world, including with top chefs such as Thomas Keller and Gary Rhodes. I asked Mukrram to tell me about one of his favourite dishes on the menu. Possibly an unfair question to ask the chef, but he happily described the tastes and textures of the pan-fried fillet of sea bass:  crispy skin, creamy potato gratin, sweet tomato-balsamic sauce, and a hint of chilli. Thanks – I know what I’ll order next time.

Overall, Gusto seems like the kind of restaurant that will appeal to almost everyone: a real all-rounder. It’s friendly and relaxed, but at the same time quite special.  I will happily go back, especially with a group of friends, for an evening of good drinks, food, and cheer. I’d love to hear what other people think. If you’ve been, please leave a comment.

Gusto
The Mitre, High St, Oxford OX1 4AG
gustorestaurants.uk.com/oxford/