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Review: A Taste of China (Covered Market)

25th November 2024 by Liz Wilding Leave a Comment BlogCASUAL/ CENTRAL OXFORD/ COVERED/ COVERED MARKET/ DUMPLINGS/ INDEPENDENTS/ LUNCH/ NOODLES/ Oxford/ restaurant/ REVIEW

Lunchtime in the Covered Market. We have many tempting options these days (hurray!), but there are some days when only home-made noodles will feed my hunger. That’s when I stop by a Taste of China.
This tiny, family-run business is on the Market Street side, next to one of the entrances. It could more accurately be called a taste of Shaanxi, which is the province in the middle of China best known for the Xi’an terracotta warriors and biangbiang noodles. I think of it as a take-away, street food stall, though there are a few 2-person tables along its side.

So, let’s get back to the bustling little kitchen, which specialises in a range of different noodles.

There are various specialties: wide, thin, wheat, sweet potato, hot or cold, etc. These noodle dishes range from about £9.00 to £13.00 in price.


The hot and dry noodles are a must-eat in my opinion.

They have a firm and chewy texture and are absolutely wonderful topped with sesame sauce and the added crunch of fresh vegetables. Yes, they do have Biangbiang noodles: wide like a belt and super chewy. I wish they’d add a little bit more sauce, but otherwise they are delicious.

I’m also a big fan of their dumplings. You can get them fried, or better yet in hot and sour soup. This is a delightful winter-warming dish, full of veg and flavour, and very substantial. You have a choice of pork or chicken dumplings, though I recommend the pork.


On my last visit, I tried the lamb paomo, a Shaanxi dish featuring a broth with glass noodles, lamb, and mushrooms.

A distinctive feature is the addition of lots of little pieces of chopped-up flatbread (‘mo’), which taste like mini wheat dumplings. The flavour of the broth was lovely, and I can see why this might be a favourite comfort food. However, I found the proportion of bread a bit on the heavy side. I’d also suggest asking for some chili sauce to go with it.

Overall, I recommend A Taste of China for a quick and VERY casual lunch in the middle of town.

It’s not the cheapest place, but the food is quality Shaanxi cuisine prepared with care. I’m very happy to have it as a source of tasty noodles: the sort of place where slurping the delicious broth seems like it’ll be okay, perhaps even preferred.

Have you tried it? Let us know in the comments!

Taste of China
Unit 51, Covered Market, Market St, Oxford OX1 3DX

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