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The search for the perfect bagel

29th November 2023 by Liz Wilding Leave a Comment Best For, BlogBAGELS/ CENTRAL OXFORD/ Oxford/ OXFORDSHIRE

Okay, bagel lovers, where in Oxford do YOU go when you need a fix?

My inner New Yorker is always craving the perfect bagel. That means they’ve been boiled and then baked, resulting in a dark crust and a dense, chewy (rather than bready) interior. Here’s my latest round-up, and I’m keen to get new recommendations from anyone who’s as obsessed as me. I’m still looking for that perfect NYC taste.

The real deal: One Daily Bagel at 2 North Parade

These ‘we-boil-you-bake-bagels,’ produced by two Americans from Los Angeles, are my favourites in Oxford so far. You have to bake them yourself, but that simply involves taking them straight out of the freezer and popping them in the oven for 20 minutes. The payoff is being able to eat them hot, slathered in butter, for breakfast. The texture is excellent, especially if you cook them long enough to create a crackly crust. The only downside is that they are pricey (£10 for four), so save them for the weekend when you can savour every bite.

If you don’t want to work for your bagel, try one of these local spots instead:

All about the bagel: The Steamhouse

This Oxford newcomer is one of a small chain of five cafes that make their own bagels fresh every day. They feature a fine range of bagel sandwiches (£7-£8). My favourites are the vegetarian Yogi (falafel, mango chutney, grilled peppers, and hummus) and the Reuben (pastrami, Swiss cheese, pickles, sauerkraut and Russian dressing). The fillings are all excellent, and the chew on the bagels is pretty good: I just wish they were baked a little longer. There are plenty of delicious looking cakes and coffee on offer, too.

Oxford-made: G&Ds

Did you know that in addition to churning delicious ice cream, G&Ds shape, boil and bake their own bagels in their St Aldates location? They have a nice crust, though are a bit too bready inside. Once toasted, though, they make a good base for a sandwich.  I like to drop in at the friendly Little Clarendon G&Ds for a toasted everything bagel with cream cheese.  But for a real splurge, get a bagel melt (£5-£7), because everything is better with cheese melted on top. A cone of coffee ice cream afterwards is the perfect added treat.

The café experience: Jericho Café

This indie neighbourhood café has made the smart choice to bring in bagels from Abingdon-based De Gustibus to supplement their menu. Go to brunch with your friends and tuck into a tasty sandwich (£7 or £8) while they eat eggs or porridge. I recommend the Scandi (smoked salmon, cream cheese and capers), or the New Yorker (salt beef, Emmental, sauerkraut, and Thousand Island dressing). A good all-rounder.

Not really a bagel: Gatineau

These ‘bagels’ look very elegant and have a nice flavour, though Monsieur Gatineau has put what I guess is a French twist on his. Basically, they have more of a brioche texture than the classic style I’m used to, so get ready for a totally different experience. My lunch tip: toast a black sesame seed bagel (£1.90), top it with smoked salmon, and give it a French name: ‘déjeuner au sésame noir.’ Don’t even think about New York.

Comment below if you can think of somewhere to add to my list!

Previous: Review: The Fox Inn Pie & Pint night
Next: Il Corno in the Covered Market: launch night

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