This is the third in the ‘Potted Goose’ group of pubs that I have been lucky enough to sample in recent months. The Kingham Plough was the very first and original creation of Matt and Katie Beamish.

In my opinion, this is the best of their three pubs but that’s really splitting hairs – The Crown at Church Enstone and The Hare at Milton-under-Wychwood are truly excellent establishments too. All three pubs offer something different but the service ethos, homely environment and innovative menu are the DNA that runs through all of them.

It’s definitely worth a drive out to Kingham, a beautiful Cotswold village south of Chipping Norton and set amongst fine walking country and rolling hills. The pub sits at the heart of Kingham overlooking the village green. It’s a hamlet made famous in recent years by its annual Big Feastival, hosted by Blur bassist, fanatical cheesehead and gentleman farmer Alex James.

What you have here is another gorgeous, family-owned Cotswold gastro pub that hasn’t chased Michelin stars and isn’t full of blow-ins from the same wealthy SW London postcode. There’s a very mixed midweek lunchtime clientele including lads from the local removals firm sat at the bar after a hard day’s heft. You probably need to book a few weeks ahead though if you want a weekend table.

Matt Beamish learnt his trade at Manoir aux Quatre Saisons under Raymond Blanc and worked in the South West for Jamie Oliver. It was here that he met his wife Katie.

Katie studied Interior Design and Architecture at University and headed off to Australia where she somehow ‘stumbled’ into the hospitality industry. A ski season in chalets in Meribel was followed by a return to London and the legendary St John Bread & Wine in Clerkenwell as Assistant Bar Manager. Roles at the renowned Cirencester restaurant and deli ‘Made by Bob’ saw her arrive in the Cotswolds and the rest is history.

The Beamishes have built a formidable team and the staff clearly enjoy their jobs. The day we visited chef Matt Dare from the Milton Hare was sat in one corner dining with JJ the Plough’s General Manager and Matt the Crown’s General Manager, all on their days off. Jane the front of house could not have been more warm and welcoming either.

The Plough had previously been a restaurant but was given a fresh lease of life by openly encouraging villagers to use it as the local, as is the case in all of their pubs. The Plough is your classic relaxed Cotswold inn – solid 17th century limestone walls, a snug bar and two blazing wood burners. It’s dog friendly and there are comfortable nooks and crannies throughout with a bigger room for more formal eating. It is effortlessly smart but it’s undoubtedly a pub – bare stone, wood panels, stripped beams and a solid, sanded bar mingled with dark green sofas & armchairs, wooden furniture and quirky prints. Old school artefacts like tennis rackets and fashion posters and a Beamish Stout barrel end cover the walls.

Innovative sous chef Jason is a passionate disciple of the slow food movement. His philosophy is “simple, seasonal and traditional” and that shone through in the day’s menu. He’s spent time in Stellenbosch, Korea and Piemonte. Jason has just been rewarded with a promotion and is off to be the Head Chef at The Crown at Church Enstone.

Soups are always a strength here: curried parsnip soup with coriander and chilli salsa, all mopped up with a Mark’s Cotswold Crunch roll so hit the mark (£8) on this sunny winter’s day. I loved the fresh pan-roasted scallops with black pudding, cauliflower purée, apple and herb oil (£14). Every delicious morsel was to be savoured.

Mains is where you could see Jason’s Korean imprint – I loved the sesame-seared tuna steak with apple dashi broth, seaweed, pak choi and kohlrabi kimchi (£26). There is a grand array of steaks from aged Hereford Rib Eye to Bavette to a monster 26oz dry aged T-bone for two to share at £75, complete with Bearnaise sauce.

The poshest of pies, the Chicken & Tarragon pithivier with its apple purée and red wine, was delicious and heartwarming. Real feel-good food.

Desserts with the Beamishes are the showstoppers as always. The Dark Chocolate Tart with orange mascarpone, white chocolate, aero and pistachios could never be bettered (£9). The Vanilla Crème Brûlée (£9) with shortbread was pretty darn good too!

The Kingham Plough did not disappoint – pub classics, adventurous breakout food ideas and the cosiest, most welcoming environment you’d ever want.

The Kingham Plough
The Green, Kingham, Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire, OX7 6YD
thekinghamplough.co.uk/