Review: Lost In Paris menu at Six By Nico

I’ll jump at any chance to go to France, so when a Paris-themed invite dropped in the Bitten inbox, I was first in line. Maybe my French literature degree would finally pay off! ‘Lost in Paris’ is the latest menu from Six by Nico on the Westgate rooftop, whose six-course formula is probably familiar to many of you by now. This time, 6bN is showcasing their inventiveness through a series of reinterpreted classic French dishes. This was undoubtedly my favourite meal there so far – I think the kitchen has found their groove rather than being off course in any way. We jumped right into dinner.

As it’s a fixed tasting menu (£45), you don’t need to spend much time choosing, unless it’s to carefully consider whether to get the wine (£30) or the cocktail (£40) pairing. The latter had more fun names, especially the ‘gin ne sais quoi,’ but I chose the wines for this meal.

Course 1: Soupe à l’oignon
The tasty little bowl wasn’t really soup, but something even better – a light, airy, cheesy Comté foam with some jammy onion and crunchy brioche topping. I enjoyed it immensely as an introduction to our evening in Paris. With the background soundtrack of café-style accordion music playing, the French vibe was hitting us hard.

Course 2: Poireau grillé
This was a pretty plate of grilled leek paired with fondant potatoes and drizzled with a walnut and cabernet dressing. I appreciated that the leeks still had a slight crunch and loved the mix of acid and nuttiness as a flavour combination. The first wine – a crisp and fruity Trebbiano d’Abbruzo – married beautifully with this dish.

Course 3: Tartare de boeuf
Beef tartare was loaded with matchstick potatoes, pickled mustard, smoked egg yolk jam, and my new favourite: little cornichons fried in a light crispy batter. I could have eaten a whole bowl of just these, so perhaps the chef will consider making them a separate bar snack? I must say that this course highlighted one risk of 6bN’s preference for putting so many different elements on the plate. All those extras on top of the tartare looked lovely but overwhelmed the beef and caused its flavour to get lost in the mix.
A glass of Calvet Beaujolais was absolutely the right choice to round things out.

Course 4: Poisson au vin rouge
We were served a piece of well-cooked black pollock with a rich lobster sauce poured at the table. This delightful pairing really allowed the taste of the fish to shine through, and the smooth cauliflower puree complemented it well. The ‘Parisian gnocchi’ were a tad undercooked, with a hint of raw flour, though the texture was still pillowy soft. The fish called for more red wine – and the lovely Murets de Mez from Bordeaux fit the
bill.

Course 5: Poulet au poivre
This was exactly as advertised: a tender piece of chicken topped with a robust and delicious green peppercorn sauce. In the signature 6bN manner, it shared the large plate with a series of other little bites: chicken terrine in a crispy breaded crust, aromatic baked celeriac and a delicate chicken boudin blanc. There was truffle ketchup somewhere, but I didn’t even notice it as I was eating, meaning it didn’t bring much to the dish. Our glass of Argentinian Sierra de Plata Malbec tasted lovely by itself but was a little overwhelmed by the peppercorn.

Course 6: Crème brûlée
One of the most iconic French desserts – deconstructed. It featured cocoa nib, milk jam (like thicker condensed milk), poached pear, and sherry, all coming together harmoniously. Most importantly it included the crunchy sugary top, as a separate element, because it wouldn’t be crème brûlée without it. And if you’ve seen the iconic 2001 movie, Amélie, you’ll understand the absolute joy of cracking this top with your spoon (IYKYK). Pudding wine: a ruby red, frizzante Brachetto d’Aqui that was super sweet with a light fruity aroma.

Chocolat
There’s even an extra dessert add-on – an indulgent velvety hot chocolate with masses of whipped cream. Of course, I ordered it. The luxury of scooping heaping spoonfuls of Chantilly into the cup just adds to the decadent Paris atmosphere.