Review: Wilding’s ‘A Toast with Champagne’

My recent evening at Wilding Wine was all sparkle: bottles of bubbly chilling, wine glasses gleaming, and conversation fizzing. I joined 11 other guests in the private upstairs room for a champagne tasting and a delightfully indulgent two hours.

Hosted by Sarah Helliwell, Wilding’s head of wine, the event introduced us to six champagnes produced by family-owned growers. It was an opportunity to sample a variety of wines by the glass – rather than committing to one single bottle – and to learn more about them. We started big, with a magnum of Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs brut (NV): fresh, elegant, and delicious. It was a tasty intro to the carefully curated selection that followed.

A highlight of the session was Sarah’s enthusiasm and in-depth knowledge about every glass poured. An experienced wine educator, she made champagne feel accessible to beginners and added insight for those with more background. Along with essential information about grape varietals, growers, and terroir, I also learned tips such as the correct pronunciation of Moët & Chandon and the number of bubbles in a champagne bottle.

Our conversation around the table became increasingly animated as the fizz flowed, and the time passed by very quickly. There was a brief intermission for a chance to peruse the menu, at which point some guests placed an order to have food waiting at the end of the evening. All too soon we were sipping the last glass: a lovely Philippe Gonet Brut Rosé. With only empty bottles left, we asked a few final questions and said goodbye to our fellow guests (plus one very well-behaved pooch). I left with an effervescent glow and a resolution to drink more champagne.