Eating; we do it at least 3 times a day. It’s one area of our lives where even little changes to our behaviour can have a massive impact on slowing down climate change.

Food and agriculture are two of the largest contributors to greenhouse gas emissions. Restaurants in the UK produce almost 200,000 tonnes of food waste every year, costing the food industry upwards of £500 million. More people are coming to recognise this and want to do something about it, including restaurants and food businesses in Oxford. Amongst the city’s ever-expanding food culture are champions of being more eco-conscious, whilst still producing amazing food. 

That’s where Wilding comes in. Based on Little Clarendon Street, Wilding have been open since May 2021, taking over what was previously Café Rouge. The duo behind this beautiful establishment are founder, Kent Barker, and head of wine, Sarah Helliwell. From the outset, the pair decided that sustainability is incredibly important and will be considered at every stage.

The menu at each of their three Wilding branches is different, using local and seasonal ingredients where possible.

Wilding’s dishes are overhauled four times a year to highlight the best of British produce. You’ll find tweaks and specials daily, depending on what they can get their hands on at their local fishmongers and butchers. There are linen napkins, virtually no disposables and no outdoor heating. The kitchen uses induction instead of gas and the flowers are all dried sustainably. 

Many of the features remain from Café Rouge, like the floor, tables and chairs. The pair have done what they can to upcycle much of the furniture in order to reduce waste. There’s wine available on tap, which is shipped in a giant Flexitanker and sealed with Nitrogen, cutting out the need for glass bottles. This reduces waste and carbon emissions. You can refill your own wine bottles too, using the Enomatic Machine, and the company have even adopted a stamp-card scheme where you get your 11^th bottle free!

Despite having recycled much of the previous owner’s furniture, the restaurant is unrecognisable.

There is a warmth and cosiness to the place, it feels rustic and welcoming; something you might not expect from a wine bar. Rather than feeling intimidated and unwelcomed, I feel at home. Sarah sits down to talk to us; she is passionate about wine and wants to share this with both her employees and customers.

All staff receive WSET training and are encouraged to get interested and educated in the world of wine. Far from obnoxious and pretentious, this place welcomes anyone. From those with a deeper understanding and love for wine to those who know very little (much like myself)!

All the food on Wilding’s menu highlights the best of what’s in season and available locally.

For example, when we dined, the corn puree was swapped for a mustard mash, as corn season is now over. We were also given trout from the Chalk Stream, just South of Oxford. Sarah told me they chose trout not only because it’s more sustainable, but also underrated and deserving of more attention. Wilding’s game meat comes from local suppliers, not much further than Reading, and their vegetables largely come from Bonners in Oxford’s Covered Market.

On their dessert menu there are no berries, there are no meringues or mango sorbets; you’ll find those in the warmer months when berries are at their best. Right now, Wilding is making the most of apples and pears that the man at the market gave them, and boy, is it delightful.

I’m told how integral it is that Wilding has good relationships with the suppliers. They know their names, what’s on offer, and what’s best. It’s this communication that’s key to the building blocks of the restaurant’s foundations.

Wilding is just one of many establishments making better changes towards a brighter future, and it’s great to see that everything is being considered. As I leave I’m full of hope that more establishments will follow in their footsteps, helping cut their carbon footprint for the longevity of our society and our planet.

Wilding
11-12 Little Clarendon St, Oxford OX1 2HP
wilding.wine

This is the first of Bitten’s Ethical Eats series, watch this space for the next article!