My first foray to Banbury for a review took me to the lovely village of Kings Sutton and The White Horse. As I stepped out of the car, I was immediately struck by the sound of bells ringing from the 14th century church and the pitch-dark sky scattered with twinkling stars.
Walking through to the back of the restaurant, I found a smart, upmarket dining space. As I had my dog in tow, we were shown to a more rustic but equally lovely large table by the roaring open fire, complete with a tall candle glowing in the centre.
We were surrounded by dogs, in the best possible way, all very well behaved and clearly looked after. Ralphie was served his drink before I was.
On Fridays, the pub runs a Fish Friday offer, a bottle of Prosecco just £20 (normally £35) and Fish & Chips for just £15 per person.
The menu also includes a couple of specials that change daily, including a fish dish and a pie of the day. Reviews often mention their pies, although the flavour when we visited mince and onion didn’t take my fancy. They also cater very well for gluten free diners, with most dishes available gluten free.
We started with a lovely glass of Argentinian Malbec, and a glass of fizz. The wine was served in a beautifully thin glass at room temperature and had a lovely flavour.
For starters, we ordered the pan-fried scallops served on cauliflower purée with capers and bacon crumb, £16, gluten free, and the honey and sriracha-glazed chicken wings with blue cheese sauce, £11, also gluten free.
Both starters were beautifully presented. The three scallops were perfectly cooked, and I loved the creaminess of the purée paired with the crunch of the bacon crumb. Very moreish.
The chicken wings were the true highlight of the evening and I would return for these alone.
I often find wings overly sauced, but these were lightly marinated with a smoky, slightly chilli heat. They were sticky and sweet at the same time, utter perfection. In our opinion, the blue cheese sauce was not needed.
We also ordered the artisan bread selection, £10, after seeing it mentioned repeatedly in Google reviews. The whipped butter was a highlight, but the bread itself was slightly disappointing. The selection felt limited and although generous in quantity, less would have been more. The bread was lightly toasted, which made me question its freshness. Although, I have to say it was doughy in the middle.
After such strong starters, we had high hopes for the mains. Unfortunately, when they arrived, the presentation lacked the finesse of the earlier courses, and the seasoning and overall cohesiveness felt slightly misguided.
I ordered the duck leg with bubble and squeak rosti, savoy cabbage with bacon lardons and plum sauce, £24, gluten free. My friend chose the venison steak frites with wild mushroom, whiskey and cream sauce, £29.
At this price point, you expect something elevated beyond standard pub fare, but these dishes did not quite reach the same heights as the starters. I am definitely someone who eats with their eyes first, and visually, the plates did not feel especially appealing.
The duck itself was moist and falling off the bone, with crisp skin. However, it did not sit well with the rosti, which had more of a patty or fishcake texture rather than being crisp. Despite loving savoy cabbage, I found it lacking flavour here, and the bacon did not quite complement the duck. The plum sauce was pleasant but slightly heavy, and visually, it overwhelmed the plate.
My friend’s steak was tender, but again presentation let it down. Serving the fries beneath the steak made them feel slightly secondary. A silver tin on the side would have elevated the dish. The mushrooms also felt slightly out of place.
For dessert, we chose the crème brûlée with shortbread, £9, and the Baileys chocolate pot, £10. Both were served in generously sized ramekins. The chocolate pot would have suited a smaller serving dish but as with the starters, presentation and flavour were back on form.
The crème brûlée was beautifully creamy with a thin, crisp brûléed top. The shortbread was clearly homemade.
The Baileys chocolate pot was indulgent and decadent, although the Baileys flavour was very subtle.
What truly lifted it was the inspired citrus crème fraîche on top, finished with a couple of blueberries. The citrus cut through the richness of the chocolate perfectly, a match made in heaven.
Service was warm and friendly, and we easily whiled away three hours chatting. The ambience was relaxed, the music at just the right level.
While this does not quite reach the same standard as some of the other excellent pubs in the Cotswolds offering food at a similar price point, I can see how, if you were local or taking advantage of one of their deals, it would feel like a gem.
As a destination pub, it does not quite deliver yet. If the mains begin to match the standard of the starters and desserts, that could well change.
Bitten were invited as guests, all views are our own
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