There is something rather special happening in Blewbury. The Red Lion feels less like a pub and more like a living room for the village. On a midweek evening it is filled with conversation, familiar faces and a roaring fire, the kind of place that reminds you why pubs still matter.

The couple took over the pub five years ago after a career in property development, with Annabel returning to her roots in the village where she was born and raised. It is very much a family affair: John at the helm of the restaurant, Annabel running front of house, and Annabel’s sister looking after the rooms.

John describes the transition as a steep learning curve, explaining that modern hospitality is about more than food and drink, it is entertainment. You have to tempt people away from “the allure of the sofa”. Their packed midweek bar suggests their formula is working.

Inside, the pub feels like a treasure trove. John, an art lover, happily talks us through his favourite oil paintings in the restaurant. “They’re packed with stories,” he says, and that sense of narrative threads through the building. There is a warmth here that feels genuinely organic. At one point, the landlord pulls up a chair to catch up with regulars. Multiple generations clink glasses.

It has a gentle, comforting charm that brought to mind an episode of The Vicar of Dibley, a comparison made even sweeter when we hear the local priest is hosting a fireside chat in the village.

There is something happening every night of the week: film clubs, talks, quizzes. Thursdays bring the “Thursday Combo”, a rotating street food line up, from Momo dumplings to Gurkha to pizza vendors, accompanied by live music. Guests can take food away or bring it into the pub to eat. Sundays showcase a traditional roast that looks to have rave reviews.

But it is the Ukrainian menu that really sets The Red Lion apart from other traditional country pubs.

Around eighteen months ago, John was introduced to traditional Ukrainian cooking by his small team of Ukrainian chefs. Realising their talents extended far beyond a standard pub menu, he made space for their cuisine. Now served Monday to Saturday at lunch and on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday evenings, it offers something quietly distinctive. John admits some guests need gentle encouragement, but the reward is well worth it.

We began with the Avocado Bakt, Ukrainian style egg parmesan with vodka, £8.50.

A whole avocado baked warm, a dippy egg nestled inside, covered in parmesan and served with garlic bread. Unusual, yes, but it definitely works! The Nalisnyky, mushroom-stuffed pancakes with cream cheese, £7.50, were light and comforting.

For mains, we chose the Vidbivna schnitzel, £14.50, and the Kacha duck breast with carrot puree, rosti and plum jus, £18.50. The schnitzel arrived with a fresh salad, pan fried new potatoes and a gently spiced sauce. The duck was beautifully cooked, moist and tender, the plum jus was the perfect thickness and not overly sweet. With both dishes, our only critique would have been to have a little more seasoning or salt and pepper available at the table but that’s just personal preference.

Adventurous eaters will find plenty to explore, but you do not need to be daring to enjoy these dishes.

Dessert, however, stole the show, the Syrnyky pancakes with cottage cheese and berries, £7.50, were exceptional. Four golden, doughnut-like rounds sitting in cream, filled with cottage cheese.

They were light, moreish and utterly delicious. The best dish of the night.

The Rooms

Upstairs are four individually designed rooms named after characters from The Wind in the Willows by Kenneth Grahame, who once lived in the village: Ratty, Badger, Toad and Mole. Each blends rustic charm with modern comfort.

Rather refreshing they pre-warn guests that they are a lively village pub and some evenings can get busy and noise can’t be avoided at times. For us, things settled at a sensible hour and we slept deeply in a bed that easily rivals boutique hotels charging far more. The value for money here is exceptional.

What we loved most was the thoughtful attention to design details throughout, from the beautiful waterfall shower to the fresh flowers that appeared not only in the pub but in the room itself. The breakfast hamper felt like a genuine treat to wake up to, and the dog-friendly welcome made travelling with four-legged companions feel effortless.

We also loved being able to stroll straight out in the morning to explore the village and its lovely church on foot. If we were to suggest anything, perhaps a small dog towel by the door or a watering station would help preserve those pristine carpets after muddy walks.

John and Annabel are wonderful hosts who have created something that is at once entertaining, comforting and quietly distinctive.

As for the allure of the sofa, I would happily trade mine for one of their sumptuous beds any night.

Red Lion, Blewbury

Chapel Lane, Blewbury, OX11 9PQ

Bitten were invited as guests, all views are our own