After recently doing a review at The Three Tuns in Henley, it wasn’t long before we got invited to head out that way again. It’s a good hour’s drive for us, but having had such a great experience before and with it being the perfect weather for an evening ride, we took the rather scenic country roads to Shiplake, just outside of Henley.

The Plough sits in a dip in the road, overlooking the fields. The bar and interior are very chic, modern but with no hard edges.

It’s no surprise, given that Jill (the owner) used to be an interior designer. Every detail has been thought about, from the lighting to the soap in the bathrooms. It’s the type of place you say to your dining partner, “You have to go to the toilets!” because even those are a beautiful work of art.

There are small nooks of tables and comfortable chairs, though the dining area is relatively small compared to the garden, which you don’t need to book for. The garden has been beautifully landscaped. It’s spacious, with private areas nestled amongst trees and colourful, curved flowerbeds. In the corner of the garden is a stunning outdoor kitchen and pizza oven. We could quite literally have been anywhere in the world as we sat in the suntrap garden.

Over the last five-plus years of writing, this is the first time we’ve been greeted by the owner.

I’ll forgive myself for mistaking her for a manager at first. I think that says a lot about the type of owner and pub this is. The pride, the passion, the hospitality, it’s all very unique. This is, at its heart, a truly independent restaurant. Jill says if she didn’t have a husband and kids, she’d live here. She loves it that much, and I can see why. It’s got a gentle, calm spirit. People genuinely look like they’re enjoying working here. She’s cultivated a culture that isn’t akin to many pubs these days. She says, “They’re never shouting in the kitchen here,” and the team get a bit bored of her “talking about feelings.” It’s a place that takes food seriously, but not itself. You feel it in the atmosphere – relaxed, thoughtful, warm.

The cocktail list is creative, and I was drawn to the Big Chill (£13), made with banana peel rum, Midori, and pineapple. It looked beautiful and tasted even better. There’s a mocktail menu too, which is just as well-crafted.

We ordered some whitebait with lemon mayo (£7) to start, and some Isle of Wight tomatoes with burrata.

The whitebait was lightly coated, nicely salty, and delicious dunked in citrusy mayo. You could really taste and appreciate the fish. The burrata (£18) was absolutely delicious, full of flavour, with crunchy pickled onions and tiny, crispy croutons that contrasted beautifully with the softness of the burrata and the sweetness of the tomatoes. A dish that sings to you.

We were given two menus: a more traditional à la carte and a pizza menu.

Jill talked about the intention behind this, making the menu accessible and giving people choice. I asked what was particularly popular on the main menu, and she pointed me towards the chicken breast, so I ordered that, and Rachel went for the tiger prawn pizza. We went big on sides, which we really didn’t need to, as I hadn’t realised mine would come with seasoned greens and a surprise pot of mash (more on that later). But the chips were definitely worth it. Super crispy, thin and salty. Perfect.

Rachel’s pizza (prawn and mascarpone, garlic butter tiger prawns, Isle of Wight tomato and chilli relish) was generously topped with around seven very large king prawns. At least one per slice, a very desirable ratio. They had been cooked in garlic butter, and we loved the thoughtful touch of bringing the leftover butter on the side for dipping the crusts. The base was white, mascarpone whipped with seafood bisque, which allowed every single topping to shine. The crust was incredibly light, and although many wood-fired pizzas can come out a bit blackened, this one didn’t, and yet it was perfectly crispy. Rachel happily awarded it 10 out of 10.

The chicken dish (pickled onion, bacon, peas, chicken leg pie, and truffle jus, £34) was generously portioned, with a lovely layer of salty, peppery skin and a rich jus on the plate alongside seasonal greens. It had a really tasty balance of sweet and salty from the bacon and the subtle truffle jus. The pie on the side, the surprise mash, was a small pot of decadent, creamy mash (all butter, I imagine), with more chicken meat hidden at the bottom. Maybe a bit too much chicken overall, but I loved the creativity and presentation. Two styles of chicken, both delicious.

At this point, we were very full, but Holly had been dreaming about trying one of their desserts after spotting it on Instagram, and we couldn’t go home without one.

Jill’s rave reviews confirmed it would be worth pushing the boat out for. The dessert is a playful, refined take on s’mores (£15).

Jill is from Canada and spoke about wanting to recreate this dish back ‘home’ where she plans to head back shortly for her summer holidays. She said, “We’re trying to work out how we can get the salted caramel involved, because it really elevates it,” and she’s not wrong. This dish is fun and indulgent without being sickly. The thin layer of crispy cinnamon biscuit, almost like a bourbon, the light chocolate mousse, the soft, chewy marshmallow, and the sticky toffee sauce, very reminiscent of a Werther’s Original. Jill said,

“I’ll let you pour the sauce, pour as much or as little as you want, but eat it all” said with a grin on her face. It’s irresistibly good.

Shiplake might be sleepy, but The Plough is very much alive, full of life, love, and passion.

Jill and her team really make this place something special. It’s amazing to think this is her first venture into hospitality, just over two and a half years ago. The team are clearly in their element, and it’s easy to see why. The Plough already features in the Good Food Guide for their roast, and they’re quietly hopeful they’ll make another appearance very soon. I’ve got everything crossed for them. They truly deserve it.

The Plough
 Plough Ln, Shiplake, Reading RG9 4BX

Bitten were invited as guests, all views are our own