Steak-based date night: if it isn’t already a thing, I’m going to make it one.
To launch this initiative, I decided to celebrate a recent anniversary at the Porterhouse Grill, which – as the name suggests – is basically all about steak. Tucked inside a former Edwardian pub on a side street just off the Botley Road, it’s only a couple of minutes from the train station. It was a longish walk from North Oxford, but as you’ll see, I thought it worth the trip.
Step through the door, and you’ll find a charming, understated décor. The vibe is very much gentleman’s club. Think polished copper and wooden tables, cream leather banquettes, and dark walls painted in a colour straight out of the Farrow & Ball catalogue. There’s a glossy, well stocked bar, and a blackboard featuring the cuts of meat on offer. The restaurant sources these from Smithfield market and then dry ages them for up to six weeks to enhance the flavour and texture. Wander to the back of the restaurant, and you can see the meat in the glass-fronted fridge – presumably on display to both establish their ‘steak-cred’ and whet your appetite: it certainly worked for me.
The menu is short and sweet, as it’s mostly meat plus a portobello grill as the token veggie option.
When it comes to choosing your steak, there’s a slightly confusing interface between a permanent menu, blackboard, and printed A4 sheet all featuring the different options and prices available on that day. I think they are trying to be as comprehensive as possible, but we needed our server to talk us through the choices before being able to decide.
To start, we opted for a robust beef cheek terrine, served with two slices of toasted sourdough bread (£11).
It was an auspicious beginning. The rich meaty terrine married well with the herby flavours of the lively salsa verde on the side, especially when eaten with a bite of the delicious bread. Even better, my glass of rubicone was a lovely accompaniment to this starter, even though I’d ordered it to go with my main.
Speaking of the main course, we opted to split the Chateaubriand platter, as this elegant steak just seemed right for our romantic dinner.
Known for being lean and delicate, it’s a cut of beef so special that you get to write its name with a capital letter. And the Porterhouse did it proud, serving us a plate of beautifully pink and tender slices from the tenderloin: a melt-in-your mouth experience that was truly joyful. Did I resent having to share it? Yes, but the rules of date night require a bit of restraint.
With its buttery texture and subtle taste, the Chateaubriand didn’t even need any additional adornment. I’d ordered the bearnaise sauce on the side but ended up using it as a dip for my fries. As a counterpoint to all the richness, the steak was also accompanied by roasted tomatoes and a walnut salad. The latter was deliciously refreshing, so much that I would have liked even more. Next time I might ask for two
bowls of salad and only one of the fries: or perhaps two of each?
Unusually, I skipped dessert, though I noticed that they have a sticky toffee pudding on the menu. I’ll have to leave room for that on my next visit. Overall, I was very pleased with dinner at the Porterhouse. It’s undoubtedly VERY expensive (our platter was over £50) – but top-quality beef doesn’t come cheap, and I felt it was well worth the indulgence for a special occasion. It even won over my steak-
loving American husband, so the date was successful in every possible way.
The Porterhouse is also a small hotel, so the restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
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