The Feathered Nest, six miles from Burford in Nether Westcote, is a beautifully restored malthouse, dating from 1692. It looks down onto the Evenlode Valley which is best admired from the inn’s attractive terrace and extensive gardens. It’s a relaxed, cosy, hilltop establishment right in the very heart of the Cotswolds offering top-notch dining in the most authentic of surroundings. I’m certain the sunsets in the summer are stunning and it’s worthy of a stop for the wine list, cocktails or craft beers alone.

Adam Taylor and his partner Cheryl Hooper run this delightful gastropub with rooms. You can drink real ales by a log fire or sit on the quirky leather horse saddle bar stools, dine in the more formal restaurant, enjoy those panoramic terrace views or relax under a white tent-like canopy.

With a maximum of 75 covers and a sizeable staff, this is a classy operation. The Nest offers lunch and dinner from Wednesday to Saturday as well as a much loved 12-3 pm ‘long and lazy’ Sunday lunch. It is dog and family-friendly. There are four bedrooms and a self-catering cottage if you want to stay over. The rooms have recently all been refurbished by Cheryl to a very exacting and modern ‘contemporary country’ style.

Chef Matt Weedon arrived in 2019 from Michelin-starred kitchens in country house hotels such as the Lords of the Manor in Upper Slaughter and Glenapp Castle in southwest Scotland. He originally learnt his trade at Hambleton Hall in Rutland so he has a strong pedigree. Matt Weedon has developed a highly assured, French-influenced style of cooking but with a light, stripped back take on the classics and a huge emphasis on seasonal local ingredients of the highest standard. He’s opted to cook a tight, modern seasonal menu here.

Fresh fish comes from Flying Fish in Cornwall as we’ve seen previously at other leading Cotswolds food pubs like The Killingworth Castle and The Milton Hare.

A winter dish such as the neatly presented wood pigeon and pear, cooked on the Konro grill, with bacon, sultana, parsley and panko crumbs was the perfect winter starter, with a sweet twang from the pear purée and sultana flavour. Exquisite, rich and memorable.

The freshly cut Yellow Tuna Tartare came in a large and light bowl-like tapioca crisp, with the perfect mix of contemporary textures and zesty tastes. I loved the innovative use of the fresh tastes of wasabi, ginger, lime and miso that matched well with the bright South African Chenin Blanc, available by the glass.

The venison loin chosen as a main was slightly more conventional and classical but a fine ‘feel good’ winter lunch when paired with a robust red from Bordeaux. It followed on well from the wood pigeon and pear starter which worked well with a lighter fruity Italian Sangiovese red.

The Roasted Skrei Cod was exceptionally generous and unusual with its chunky pearly white flakes and thick cut. It was perfectly dressed with Jerusalem artichokes, Chanterelle mushrooms, Exmoor caviar and moistened with a delicious and contrasting Shiraz and beef jus. Skrei is seen as the world’s best cod – a large meaty migratory cod from Northern Norway and only in season from January to April each year.

Portions don’t leave you feeling hungry whilst the presentation is simple yet classy. My cod was the perfect example of great colours, sauces and composition.

The wine list is extensive and full of surprises. It is truly global with a focus on France and Italy but with a broad selection of innovative wines from the likes of Austria and South America. Rui, the very cheerful and knowledgeable sommelier from Quarteira on Portugal’s Algarve, will guide you through the wines and potential pairings.

The inn strives to offer up ‘something for everybody’ from a 6-course tasting menu with wine (including a vegetarian tasting menu option) to their famed 8oz Wagyu Beef Nest Burger served up with local Hook Norton Brewery’s Hooky ale. There’s even a BYOB supper club on Mondays and stone-baked pizzas in the summer on the patio.

There’s good background music – a range of 70s and 80s classics sets the calming vibe. Do request a table in the bar by the roaring fire in the winter months.

The service is both diligent and friendly. Hugo and Brigida, both from the Algarve, were hugely professional and helpful.

This is in the heart of Cotswolds celebrity A-lister land but ‘the star of the show’ for me as usual was the sticky toffee pudding, rich in chunky Medjool dates, accompanied with a generous portion of earl grey and toffee sauce, all neatly topped with a brandy snap. Rich, sweet, indulgent and very very naughty – just as every sticky toffee pudding should be! I also ventured slightly off-piste with the Yorkshire rhubarb and vanilla set custard, two of my most hated ingredients. The ginger crumble and ginger ice cream gave this the most intriguing and refreshing taste and combination of textures. An absolute winner!

Matt Weedon’s cuisine is unashamedly classical with some contemporary touches. It has rightly been awarded 3 AA rosettes. Book ahead at weekends for a table but also enjoy Matt’s cooking midweek if there’s a very special occasion or a ‘date night extraordinaire’.

The Feathered Nest
Nether Westcote, Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire, OX7 6SD
thefeatherednestinn.co.uk