With a name like Tender Coconut, you would imagine a warm and inviting atmosphere with nourishing food and that is exactly what the newly opened South Indian restaurant on Cowley Road offers.

Painted in bright orange, this low building is hard to miss. The interiors match the energy of the outside with large painted murals covering the wall, filling the room with a technicolour atmosphere.

Though it was a Monday night, the place was full, with people streaming frequently through the door looking for a dose of Indian comfort. Tender Coconut definitely felt like a place where people came to grab a taste of home. It was a relaxed ambiance where people were transported back to their dining rooms in Kerala, with typical dishes popping up throughout the menu. It was an atmosphere I loved and reminded me of going to a typical Italian trattoria and the intense nostalgia and sense of belonging I feel as soon as I walk into one. It gave me the impression Tender Coconut offers that same feeling for people with a connection to India in Oxford.

This instantly struck me as a mark of authenticity, though I will admit I do not dine in many Indian restaurants. However, when Indian food is good, its good.

And Tender Coconut served hearty, comforting dishes. Though it says ‘fine-dining’ on the façade outside, I would actually disagree, but this isn’t necessarily a negative. What I experienced was very no-frills, flavour-packed food served in simple crockery, but it was all very good and made with the desire to share local Kerala dishes with Oxford. I personally will always take this rustic vibe over dainty dishes that pull on the purse strings.

We began by ordering a cocktail each…

I was very impressed by the low price, £7 for most of their cocktails. We tried a mango caipiroska and passionfruit martini. Unfortunately, they had run out of mango so I had passionfruit flavour in my caipiroska too, but it was nonetheless delicious. Simple, nothing fancy but was refreshing and fruity.

There was a bit of a delay between the delivery of our cocktails, so I had already gotten through half of mine before my dining partner’s arrived. However, we did receive a complimentary small glass of coconut water which was a nice touch.

The chef wanted us to try the Kerala fish curry, which I was more than happy to do.

On top of that we ordered a starter of potato bonda to share and the Dal Tadka with lemon rice. I would rarely order a fish curry, but I think now I will do so more often because the Kerala fish wrapped in banana leaf was tender and packed full of masala flavour. I can see why it is one of their best dishes.

The potato bonda was good value for money, as you get two large balls for £5.50. Aromatically spiced and served with a sweet tamarind dipping sauce, this is a good option for those who want to avoid the spicy heat but still enjoy flavour-packed food. I don’t think I have ever had a potato bonda before this but now I will be looking out for them where I can, I was impressed by how much I enjoyed them.

Similarly to the drinks, there was quite a wait for the food, between the starter and the main there was about an hour’s wait, which is longer than most diners expect to wait for their food.

The staff were very apologetic, which I appreciated and hopefully this was just due to teething problems as they navigate their first few weeks being open, and I hope they can move things along quicker in the future.

When the dal and lemon rice did arrive, it was of the same great quality as our previous dishes. The dal was creamy and herby, and though technically a North Indian dish, I am glad it had a place on Tender Coconut’s menu. The lemon rice was zingy and fresh and balanced out the dal well.

Overall, Tender Coconut is well worth the visit for the food, just make sure you clear out your calendar that evening.

Tender Coconut
84 Cowley Rd, Oxford OX4 1JB

Bitten were invited as guests, all views are our own