Review: Shan Shui, Bicester

Despite having lived in Oxford for almost 15 years, I have only visited Bicester Village once. As someone who does not enjoy shopping, I thought it wasn’t for me. However hurrying through for this review opened my eyes to how many hidden foodie gems there are here – and Shan Sui is definitely among them.

Tucked among the luxury brands and shopping bags of Bicester Village, Shan Shui feels like a relaxing pause, a glossy Chinese and Asian restaurant that manages to feel polished without being prohibitively expensive. With amazing rotating fan lights, dark wood and pastel teapots, the vibe reminded me of Shanghai hotels I have stayed in whilst tutoring in China.

Found near the corner of Bicester village, it would be easy to miss this small unassuming restaurant, though by the time we arrived for lunch, the space was already buzzing.

Clearly some people were in the know about this restaurant. Tables filled quickly and before long, the place was full of Burberry coats, Louis Vuitton bags and steaming baskets of dumplings.

There are plenty of staff (surprisingly many for the size of the dining room) and they manage to stay discreet while still attentive. Water glasses were topped up regularly, allergies checked carefully, and plates whisked away. It felt effortlessly managed, the kind of service that subtly lifts the experience.

We ordered a spread to share, mostly dim sum and small plates, and they arrived in waves of steam and scent.

Gyoza, spring rolls, chicken bao, truffle mushroom siu mai, crispy wontons, and the “smacked” cucumber salad all came beautifully presented in bamboo steamers and small bowls. Everything looked fresh, neat, and appetising.

Whilst we ate all of the dishes together, the dim sum was a definite high point. The mushroom siu mai were lovely – earthy and fragrant, with just the right amount of truffle so it lifted the flavour without taking over. The gyoza were soft and nicely seasoned, and the spring rolls hit that perfect balance of crisp and packed with veggies without a hint of grease. The bao were light and slightly sweet, fluffy and packed with filling. The crispy prawn wontons were probably my favourite though, golden and crunchy on the outside, soft inside, with a chilli mayo dip that added warmth without burning your tongue. The “smacked” cucumber was cool and refreshing, though I wished it had a bit more kick; it just didn’t “smack” me.

With the mains, we were given the option to choose between spicy and mild and having experienced some particularly hairy spicy dishes recently, we opted for the mild. However this was a mistake. The beef with oyster sauce was tender and well-cooked, but a little understated. I suspect the non-spicy version we chose missed the edge that would have made it shine.

The Cantonese-style vegetable noodles were generous and colourful, with big pieces of just-cooked veg rather than the usual shredded mix. They weren’t served piping hot, and the flavours were on the plain side – next time again, I’d choose the spicier version. It’s one of those meals that was easy to enjoy but left me curious about what I might have ordered instead.

By the end, we’d definitely over-ordered, small plates add up fast and I left regretting that I didn’t have space for their juices, dessert or one of their bubble teas, which looked as pretty as they sounded (the mochi were calling my name).

My only real issue came before we even arrived when we got caught in car trouble, it was almost impossible to reach them by phone. The website number didn’t work, and even the sister restaurant at Heathrow couldn’t connect us. Once we finally made it, though, everything ran smoothly.

Prices are reasonable for Bicester Village: £10–15 for most small plates, £20 for mains.

The atmosphere feels classy, and the service genuinely impressed me. They even sell their own tiny teapots and candles for you to take home and savour the Shan Sui vibe for longer (we were gifted a candle which smells lovely). Shan Shui has the kind of energy you want in a shopping-day restaurant – lively, elegant, and run with care.