This was supposed to be a swim and lunch at Thames Lido. Very wholesome. Very organised. Instead, my day involved a leaking roof, my partner being on tour in Prague, a nursery drop-off that went on longer than planned, and me arriving late and stressed for a mums’ date that had already started without me. The swim had very much happened. I had very much not been there. Lunch, though, was still waiting, which felt like a small personal victory. I sat down in exactly the right mood for food. There were four of us, which meant a sensible spread. Those who had swum first had their swim and dine deal, which meant they could get a main and dessert. I opted for two appetisers, and a clear understanding that dessert would be shared.
We went for the rigatoni with cavolo nero as one of the mains. The sauce sat somewhere between pesto and something smoother and calmer. Very green. Comfortingly green. The feta cut through nicely and it was the sort of dish you keep going back to even when you’re no longer hungry.
I ordered the beetroot and labneh and the Chiltern lamb sausage as appetisers. The beetroot was nicely done, slightly sweet, possibly honeyed. Good, but very much something you want alongside other plates rather than on its own. The sausages, though, were excellent. Great mustard.
The pork chop that one of my fellow diners had was crispy and the beans were creamy and comforting and as sides there were two types of potato, and we argued about which was the best. The hot greens could have been hotter, but no one was particularly upset about it.
The hake fish was described as perfectly cooked. No drama, no dryness, just solid and well judged. The slow cooked courgettes had a welcome bit of spice, which we all appreciated because courgettes can so easily fade into the background. These didn’t.
Dessert was always going to be shared.
The chocolate terrine was rich and indulgent, though the fruit vinegar of the pickled fig alongside slightly overpowered it. Still very good, just louder than necessary. The apple cake was more of a crowd-pleaser. Lots of apple, not stodgy, and with that slightly fancy, homemade feel. We all agreed it could have done with more custard, and there wasn’t much brown sugar coming through, but plates were cleared regardless.
I missed the swim this time, but the swim and dine package is actually very good value if your day doesn’t fall apart before midday. A proper swim and a lunch like this for the price feels fair, if not generous.
All in all, it’s relaxed, thoughtful food in a setting that makes you feel better than when you arrived. Even late, slightly frazzled, and skipping half the plan. I’d happily go back – ideally earlier next time.
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