Review: Hotel Du Vin, Henley

The Hotel Du Vin is just a 1 minute walk from the river in the centre of Henley, famous for all of the rowing that takes place in the summer.

It is tucked away in a little courtyard and is housed in an old brewery building. The restaurant is in the heart of the ground floor and has warm leather seating, polished wooden floors, framed art, mirrors, and leafy hanging plants creating a space that feels both sophisticated and welcoming.

We visited on a Friday afternoon at 1pm, early afternoon due to our baby’s nap time, and found the restaurant empty when we arrived. Over the course of our meal only a few other diners appeared, meaning that it lacked an atmosphere, but we were assured that more people would arrive in the evening.

I was there to try the afternoon tea – a traditional 3 stand affair filled with a mix of sweet and savory options.

I’ve had more than my fair share of afternoon teas over the years, and I’m often disappointed by stingy sandwich fillings or a parade of dull cakes. Not here.

As it was afternoon tea, I was offered tea as soon as I was seated. I chose a standard English breakfast tea – an option that our waiter Robert told me that most people choose. Service throughout was friendly and thoughtful. Our waiter Robert, the operations manager, was happy to answer questions, take photos for guests, and check in on us throughout without being intrusive. He also refreshed my cutlery before I tackled the scones without being asked – one of those small touches that adds polish to the whole experience.

The sandwiches were great.

The smoked salmon and cream cheese on sweet brioche was particularly generous – no skimping on the fish here. Every bite was properly filled, and the brioche was soft and just sweet enough to complement the fish. The ratatouille socca pancake was also unexpectedly good: dense, earthy, and full of flavour. The chicken mayo was ok as was the croissant – flaky, and not dried out, but pretty standard.

The sweet tier included a rich chocolate pot (though I could have done without the random blob of cream on top), a well-made tarte tatin with lovely pastry and classic caramel flavour, and a profiterole filled with ice cream instead of cream – served with a mini jug of warm, slightly bitter chocolate sauce, which was such a nice touch. That chocolate sauce! I could have drunk it right out of the jug – I planned to but by the time the end of the afternoon tea came around, I was too full.

Even the crème brûlée, usually not my thing, won me over with its thin, easy-to-crack sugar top and smooth custard.

The only slight letdown was the scones – deliciously baked but smaller than expected. Then again, by the time we got there, half a scone was more than enough. Maybe my eyes are bigger than my stomach?

As my partner is allergic to eggs and nuts, the afternoon tea wasn’t the best option for him. Therefore he ordered from the new spring menu. Our server was able to tell us what food was good for him and we ended up asking him to recommend the menu. He chose a French opinion soup and a lamb dish, with a camembert baked mash that our baby could enjoy too.

The French onion soup was well balanced, not too sweet and the cheese helped give it a tang. The lamb was rich and satisfying, not fatty with lovely shallot onions and paired with a sharp mint jelly that was refreshing. Unfortunately, it was served in a bowl which meant that the mint jelly sunk into the rest of the gravy after the start, melted and was lost forever.

My partner skipped dessert as, being allergic to eggs and nuts, there is never anything he really fancies and I really did not need any more sweet stuff! As we left the sun was beaming and the courtyard looked like a lovely spot to eat in the sunshine. We both agreed that we would pop back in next time we were in Henley.