Let’s take a moment to celebrate the recent reopening of the Anchor in North Oxford.
With the British Beer and Pub Association (BBPA) warning that one pub is likely to close every single day across Britain this year, we should revel in anything that fights this downward trend. But even more importantly (at least for me), it is serving up a tasty menu in the friendliest possible way.
Like many in the community, I’d been wondering what would happen after the Wadworth-owned pub closed at the end of 2024.
The original Anchor Inn was established back in 1796 and had been a local landmark throughout a series of changes – to the building, name, and management – ever since. The new Anchor is the result of a collaboration between Imran Hashmi and William Helsby (the people who bought us the Cowley Retreat, the Light House, or the Oxford Retreat) and the Za’atar Bake team on the Cowley Road. The assistant manager told me that they had all worked on previous projects together, though this development marks a full creative partnership, with Za’atar Bake playing a central role in shaping the menu.
The menu certainly reflects this Middle Eastern influence.
For example, you can dig into baba ghanouj, spicy lamb sausage, cauliflower tahini, or lamb kofta within the pub setting. But there are plenty of more traditional offerings too: fish and chips, burgers, grilled chicken, lamb chops, even sticky toffee pudding. As an additional note, they cater well to veggie- and meat-lovers alike.
My must-have starter was the crispy aubergine with mint, yoghurt, and date molasses (£7.90), which had been strongly recommended by a few neighbours. Good call, people. This might be my new favourite way to eat aubergine, combining the slight crunch of the skin, the soft (but not mushy) interior, the tang of yoghurt and the cooling refreshment of mint. Next time, I won’t share my portion.
Our first main course choice was a classic beef burger with chips (£16.40).
Burgers rise or fall by the quality of the beef, and this was top notch, so I thoroughly enjoyed it. A pile of good chips rounded out the dish, alongside both ketchup and mayo ready for dipping on the plate. A small thing, but it’s nice not to have to ask for the obvious sauces that everyone wants.
Finally, there was a pretty pink coleslaw that looked better than it tasted. It wasn’t bad, just not particularly great, and sat lonely on our plate until it was cleared away.
We also tried the chicken caesar salad (£15.90).
It had a fairly standard description on the menu, but the actual dish was a real pleaser. In particular, the ‘breaded chicken’ proved to be so much more than advertised – like crispy, cheesy, chicken croutons, but tender inside. They were utterly delicious little mouthfuls eaten with the romaine lettuce.
I especially appreciated the overall cheese level of the salad: grated on top, outside the chicken bites, and in the dressing. Was there a little bit too much of the latter? Yes, but to be fair it was a really good one, so all was forgiven.
And finally, I couldn’t resist trying the carrot cake with pistachio and walnut (£7.90) for dessert.
It arrived at our table looking as pretty as a picture, drizzled with date molasses and scattered with rose petals. Served warm, it was deliciously moist and nutty, the way a good carrot cake should be. It was really, really sweet, which I liked, but those of you less inclined towards sugary puddings might prefer the simpler ice cream option.
Overall, we had a lovely laid-back lunch in the relaxed and stylish décor of our local.
We ate inside on a day threatening rain and found the dining room to be surprisingly light for a pub. However, if you’re hardier than me, or just luckier with the weather, you can sit out in the front courtyard or under the canopy to the side of the building.
I look forward to seeing how the refreshed Anchor develops. They told me that they are continuing to work on the menu and will be adding to it during the autumn. We might see a Sunday roast added in due course, for anyone who’s a weekend traditionalist. If you are looking for drinks more than food, they do offer a range of cocktails, wines and beers, the latter featuring a rotating selection of ales from the Wadworth brewery. Cheers!
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