The Treadwell is situated inside The Store hotel in Oxford and describes itself as “untraditionally British”, think classics with a twist.

This is my second time eating here. My first experience stayed with me as possibly the best fish and chips I’ve ever eaten, so I was excited to return.

On both visits I’ve eaten early, which probably contributed to the restaurant being fairly quiet. The space is very big (almost too big), but I imagine it fills up at weekends. The ambience is really relaxed, I love the illustrated references to Oxford on the walls and the subtle background music. The service is really warm, with the team happy to make suggestions and even help settle a debate over which pudding to pick!

There aren’t a whole host of places that come to mind when I think of a good British restaurant in Oxford. This sits alongside somewhere like The Ivy for me. It clearly appeals to tourists and also seems popular with solo diners, perhaps because of the spacious layout.

I sampled the set menu, available Monday to Saturday, 12pm-3pm and 5.30pm-6.30pm, and Sundays from 12.30pm-3pm. It’s excellent value and, importantly, doesn’t feel restrictive. Everything I wanted from the main menu happened to be included on the set menu too. It’s £26.50 for two courses and £31.50 for three.

To start, we ordered a couple of drinks. I chose The Store With Love (£14), made with The Store White Rum, Chambord, Three Spirit Livener, Peychaud’s bitters, pineapple juice, lime juice, sugar syrup, fresh mint and strawberry jam. It arrived in a small prosecco-style glass topped with rose petals, beautifully chilled, which was especially welcome in the heat.

The white rum gave it a lovely punch, balanced by a definite strawberry flavour. It was absolutely divine.

Rachel opted for the Scholars Spritz (£9) from the mocktail menu, made with cucumber-infused elderflower cordial, lime juice, fresh mint and cucumber and watermelon soda. It was really refreshing and not overly sweet.

For starters we ordered the Fritto Misto with aioli (£15) and the Crispy Polenta with hazelnut aioli, parmesan and pickled onion (£10). The fritto misto was a lovely selection of whitebait, small prawns and calamari with a very light, crisp batter. It was perhaps just a touch over-seasoned for my liking, with a heavy dose of rock salt and pepper.

The crispy polenta was wonderfully creamy inside and, when combined with the parmesan and pickled onion, made for a really delicious combination. On its own it was perhaps a little plain, but everything together worked really well.

For mains, I chose the Chicken Kyiv. The chicken itself was beautifully moist with a lovely crisp crumb. For me, though, the combination of the garlic butter filling with the sweetcorn didn’t quite work, and the sweetcorn purée made the dish feel a little one-dimensional. The fresh corn itself was fantastic, full of flavour, and the dish certainly packed a salty hit. I wasn’t quite sure where the promised crispy skin came into the dish though, as a little extra crunch would really have helped with the textures.

Rachel ordered the coal-charred leeks, which came with the creamiest hummus, delicious goddess chickpeas and the chimichurri and tomatoes added so much flavour. It was also surprisingly filling. This is a great example of a delicious vegetarian main where you don’t miss the meat!

One thing worth noting is that there’s really no need to order sides. The portions are generous, and the triple-cooked chips £7 are practically a meal in themselves – definitely worth ordering though.

We finished with the Tiramisu Cheesecake (£12), served with mocha crémeux, chocolate crumb, espresso ice cream and sherry gel. The cheesecake base was more brownie-like than biscuit, but we loved the generous sherry gel, which added just the right amount of sweetness. The espresso ice cream delivered a proper coffee hit and, despite how indulgent it sounds, the dessert wasn’t nearly as rich as you’d expect.

Overall, it was a really lovely experience, and somewhere we’ll definitely return to.

There aren’t many places in Oxford serving reliably good food in such a lovely setting at this price point. I do still kind of wish I’d ordered the fish and chips though. If ever there was a reason to come back, that’s it.

I’d also thoroughly recommend starting your visit, or rounding off your meal, with a trip up to the rooftop. The views are fantastic, and it’s a great way to extend the occasion.

Treadwell

31 Cornmarket Street, Oxford, OX1 3AG

Bitten were invited as guests, all views are our own